Root Cellar Too Warm or Too Dry?

A limp carrot in storage is usually a dry cellar rather than a warm one. Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development publishes the conditions in Table 1 of Home Vegetable Storage, Agdex 732-15. Root crops, meaning beets, cabbages, carrots, parsnips, radishes and turnips, are listed at 0 to 1 degrees Celsius and 95 per cent or more relative humidity. Apples are 0 to 1 degrees and 90 to 95 per cent. Table potatoes are 5 to 7 degrees and 90 to 95 per cent. Winter squash, marrow and pumpkins are 10 to 12 degrees and 70 to 75 per cent. Cured onions are 0 to 3 degrees and 70 to 75 per cent. Alberta writes that vegetables are typically 80 to 90 per cent water, that water evaporates from them when the surrounding air is dry, and that high humidity is therefore desirable for most crops. For a single room holding several crops they publish a compromise: keep the storage at 4 to 5 degrees Celsius and the humidity high. A soft carrot that is also watery or foul smelling is a different problem and belongs on the mould and rot page. Alberta publishes nothing on whether a sprouted onion or potato is safe to eat, so neither does this page. When in doubt, throw it out.

A limp carrot is usually a dry cellar, not a warm one — and Alberta Agriculture publishes a number you can check yours against. Table 1 of Home Vegetable Storage (Agdex 732-15) gives a temperature and a relative humidity for every crop it covers. Most Canadian basements miss the humidity by a long way before they miss the temperature.

Sort which problem you have before you change anything. Water loss and rot both end with a soft vegetable, and they have opposite fixes.

Which one is it?

Too dry (water loss)Too warmRot
What you seeLimp, rubbery, bendy; shrivelled skin; the vegetable is smaller than it wasSprouting; soft cabbage; produce going over faster than the published periodSoft and watery; foul smell; a white cottony mass or a grey-brown felt
What Alberta says is happening”Vegetables are typically 80 to 90 per cent water. If the air surrounding the stored produce is dry, water will evapourate from the vegetables.""Temperature has the greatest influence on the storability of vegetables. The ideal temperature will control respiration, disease and sprouting.”A named storage disease
Where to goThis page, belowThis page, belowMould and rot in the root cellar

What Alberta publishes for each crop

This is Table 1 of Agdex 732-15, as printed. The temperature and humidity cells are shared down each storage group — the booklet prints a merged value once rather than repeating it on every row.

Storage groupProduceTemperature (°C)Relative humidity (%)Storage period (months)
Cold and humidApples0 – 190 – 95varies up to 12 months; highly variety dependent
Cold and humidBeets0 – 195+4 – 6
Cold and humidCabbages0 – 195+2 – 6
Cold and humidCarrots0 – 195+4 – 6
Cold and humidParsnips0 – 195+2 – 5
Cold and humidRadishes0 – 195+3 – 5
Cold and humidTurnips0 – 195+4 – 6
Cool and humidPotatoes – seed4 – 5not printednot printed
Cool and humidPotatoes – table5 – 790 – 955 – 10
Cool and dryWinter squash10 – 1270 – 754 – 6
Cool and dryMarrow10 – 1270 – 754 – 6
Cool and dryPumpkins10 – 1270 – 752 – 4
Cold and dryOnions – cured0 – 370 – 754 – 8

Three things in that table are worth saying out loud, because they are where a home cellar usually goes wrong.

Onions are a cold crop, not a warm one. Alberta puts cured onions at 0 to 3 °C. It is the humidity that separates them from carrots, not the temperature — 70 to 75 per cent against 95 per cent or more.

Squash is the odd one out and cannot share the room. Alberta: “Squash cannot be stored with root crops because it requires a higher temperature and lower humidity.” Ten to twelve degrees against zero to one is not a compromise you can split.

Seed potatoes get a temperature and nothing else. Table 1 prints 4 to 5 °C for them and leaves the humidity and the storage period blank. We are not going to fill those in from the table potato row beside it.

Alberta’s own prose repeats three of these figures slightly differently, and we are not reconciling them for you. Their onion section says to store cured onions at 0 to 1 °C and 75 per cent R.H. where the table says 0 to 3 and 70 to 75. Their squash section says 75 per cent R.H. where the table says 70 to 75. Their compatibility section says potatoes store best at 5 to 8 °C where the table says 5 to 7. In every case the two figures overlap and neither is far from the other, so pick the table or pick the prose and you will be inside both.

If the room is too warm

Alberta’s framing is that temperature matters more than anything else you control: “Temperature has the greatest influence on the storability of vegetables. The ideal temperature will control respiration, disease and sprouting, yielding the best quality produce over a long storage period. When the ideal temperature cannot be achieved, it is important to try to maintain a steady temperature.”

That last clause is the useful one for a basement. A steady 6 °C beats a 2 °C that swings to 10 and back.

  1. Move the thermometer to the floor. Alberta: use an accurate thermometer “located where it is convenient to read, but near the floor where the coldest conditions occur.” A reading taken at eye level is the warmest air in the room.
  2. Expect the walls to be the problem in the fall. Alberta: “Ground or basement wall temperature may be as high as 12 C when a 5 C storage is desired.” A new cellar does not start cold; you have to pull the heat out of it.
  3. Ventilate on cool nights and shut it during the day. Alberta: “To lower the temperature, ventilate with outside air on cool nights by opening vents or outside doors. Close the storage during warm periods.”
  4. Shovel snow in. It is in the booklet, in those words: “Snow can be shoveled into a storage for both cooling and humidifying.” It is the only measure here that fixes both problems at once.
  5. Cool the produce before it goes in. Alberta: harvest root crops or cabbage “as late in the season as practical, or in the early morning when they are coolest.”
  6. Watch the other end too. Alberta: “Check the storage occasionally to make sure that freezing does not occur. Emergency heat can be provided by a small electric heater or by opening the storage door of a basement cold room.”

If manual vents are not keeping up, Alberta describes the other options and what each is for rather than ranking them. Manual vents are “the least expensive.” A small fan is “the most positive means of temperature control.” A barn thermostat wired to the fan makes it automatic, and a second thermostat outdoors, wired in series, stops the fan running when the outside air is too warm to cool the storage. Mechanical refrigeration “gives the best control of temperature year round”, and it is the one they size: a 350 to 500 W unit for a typical 2.5 m × 4 m store room.

If the room is too dry

This is the one that gets missed, because nothing looks wrong until the carrots bend. Alberta states the mechanism plainly:

“Vegetables are typically 80 to 90 per cent water. If the air surrounding the stored produce is dry, water will evapourate from the vegetables. High humidity is therefore desirable for most crops.”

And ventilation is what dries the room out, which is why cooling and humidifying have to be done together: “Since ventilation removes moisture, humidity should be added to the storage when ventilation is required.”

Their methods, all of them cheap:

  • Wet the walls and floor before harvest, so the room starts damp rather than being dried out by the first crop you put in it.
  • A tub of water with an old blanket draped into it, hanging so the blanket acts as a wick.
  • A small household mister-type humidifier, which Alberta calls “an excellent way to provide humidity.”
  • Perforated plastic bags for root crops, which “allows the vegetables to breathe while retaining moisture.” Alberta is specific that the perforations matter — an unperforated bag is a ventilation problem instead.
  • Damp sand, which they call effective but more work.
  • Plastic sheeting over the bins, which also reduces moisture loss.

One warning from their carrot section that costs nothing to follow: “Avoid storing vegetables in dark coloured plastic trash bags as these can give an objectionable taste to the vegetables.”

The one-room problem, answered by Alberta rather than by us

Most people have one cold room and several crops. Alberta publishes the compromise:

“Potatoes store best at a temperature of 5 to 8 C (41 - 46 F), while root crops store best at 1 C (34 F). The practical compromise is to keep the storage at 4 - 5 C (39 - 41 F) and the humidity high; root crops will keep almost as well and potatoes will not be harmed by too low a temperature.”

4 to 5 °C and high humidity is a published figure, not our average of two rows. It covers potatoes and root crops. It does not cover squash, pumpkin or marrow, which want 10 to 12 °C and a much drier room, and it does not cover onions, which want the cold but not the damp.

Sprouting, and what we will not tell you

Alberta names sprouting once, as one of three things the ideal temperature controls. They publish nothing about whether a sprouted potato or onion may be eaten, and no other Canadian authority we can reach publishes anything either. So this page does not answer that question. A sprouting crop is telling you the room is warmer than the table wants; that much is in the booklet, and the rest is not.

One thing about potatoes they do publish, and it is easy to confuse with sprouting:

“Potatoes not totally covered by soil in the garden or left in a room exposed to daylight or artificial room lights may develop a green colour. The potatoes should not be eaten if the tuber flesh is green as toxic chemicals are often found in association with green tubers.”

That is a statement about green flesh, not about sprouts, and it comes with its own fix: Alberta says to store potatoes in the dark, because “storage in the dark is necessary to prevent greening of the tuber skin.”

Potatoes that have gone sweet

A potato stored too cold is a quality problem with a published remedy rather than a loss. Alberta: “Potatoes stored at too cool a temperature will convert starch reserves to sugar. To improve the colour and flavour, remove tubers from storage seven to 10 days before use and store them in the dark at room temperature. This will ensure that the potatoes are not sweet when cooked or turn dark brown when fried.”

Before you blame the room

Alberta’s line on this is blunt and worth keeping in view: “It must be remembered that the quality of the produce will not be improved during storage but will decrease with time.” A cellar holds quality; it does not add any. If a crop went in bruised, wet or immature, no temperature will fix it — and their instruction for produce that went in damaged is to store it separately and eat it first.

For anything soft that is also watery, smells foul, or is carrying a visible fungus, stop here. That is a storage disease rather than a dry room, and it is covered on mould and rot in the root cellar, along with the one safety statement Alberta does publish. The broader setup — which rooms work, how to build or choose one, which crops to store at all — is on root cellaring in Canada.

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Frequently asked questions

My carrots went soft. Is that the temperature or the humidity?

Almost always the humidity, and Alberta Agriculture explains the mechanism in one sentence: vegetables are typically 80 to 90 per cent water, water evaporates from them when the surrounding air is dry, and high humidity is therefore desirable for most crops. A carrot that has lost water goes limp, rubbery and bendy, and it looks shrivelled rather than wet. Alberta lists root crops at 95 per cent relative humidity or more, which is higher than almost any Canadian basement sits at without help. A carrot that is soft AND watery AND foul smelling is a different thing, and the page on mould and rot in the cellar is where that goes.

My potatoes and onions are sprouting. Are they still safe to eat?

We are not going to tell you, because the authority this page rests on does not say. Alberta Agriculture names sprouting exactly once, as one of the three things the right temperature controls, alongside respiration and disease. They publish no statement anywhere in Home Vegetable Storage about whether a sprouted vegetable may be eaten, and no other Canadian authority we can reach publishes one either. What Alberta does publish about potatoes is a different thing that is easy to confuse with sprouting, and it is a clear instruction: potatoes left in daylight or artificial room light may develop a green colour, and they write that the potatoes should not be eaten if the tuber flesh is green, as toxic chemicals are often found in association with green tubers. Sprouting is not greening. If your question is about green flesh, that sentence is the answer; if it is about sprouts, we have no published answer to give you.

I only have one room and the crops want different conditions. What do I do?

Alberta publishes the compromise rather than leaving you to invent one. They write that potatoes store best at 5 to 8 degrees Celsius while root crops store best at 1 degree, and that the practical compromise is to keep the storage at 4 to 5 degrees and the humidity high, because root crops will keep almost as well and potatoes will not be harmed by too low a temperature. Note what that compromise does not cover: squash. Alberta writes that squash cannot be stored with root crops because it requires a higher temperature and lower humidity, and their table puts winter squash at 10 to 12 degrees against the root crops' 0 to 1. Squash belongs somewhere else in the house, not in the compromise.

How do I actually add humidity to a basement room?

Alberta lists the methods and none of them needs equipment you do not have. Wet the storage walls and floor before harvest. During the season, place a tub of water in the room and hang an old blanket draped in the water so that it acts as a wick. They call small household mister-type humidifiers an excellent way to provide humidity. Storing root crops in perforated plastic bags lets the vegetables breathe while retaining moisture, storing in damp sand is effective but more work, and covering bins with plastic sheeting also reduces moisture loss. Snow shovelled into the storage both cools and humidifies. The timing point is the one people miss: Alberta writes that ventilation removes moisture, so humidity should be added when ventilation is required.

Where should the thermometer go?

Near the floor. Alberta's instruction is to use an accurate thermometer located where it is convenient to read, but near the floor where the coldest conditions occur. A thermometer at eye level on the door frame is reading the warmest air in the room, which is how a cellar that looks like it is holding 4 degrees freezes a crate of potatoes on the bottom shelf. They also say to check the storage occasionally to make sure that freezing does not occur, and that emergency heat can come from a small electric heater or from opening the storage door of a basement cold room.

Why have my carrots gone bitter?

Check what is stored beside them. Alberta writes that apples and pears produce ethylene, which causes carrots to become bitter if they are stored together for a period of time. That is a storage-neighbour problem rather than a temperature problem, and the fix is to separate them rather than to change the room. OMAFRA's postharvest guide is the fuller Canadian reference on which crops give off ethylene and which are sensitive to it.

Sources

  • Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development — Home Vegetable Storage, Agdex 732-15, reprinted 2012 06 (https://open.alberta.ca/publications/home-vegetable-storage)
  • OMAFRA — Postharvest handling and storage (https://omafra.gov.on.ca/CropOp/en/general_agronomics/post_harvest_handling.html)
  • Québec — Préparation de conserves maison (https://www.quebec.ca/en/agriculture-environment-and-natural-resources/food-processing/home-canning)